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The Making and Knowing Project, makingandknowing.org

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Painting in Oil on Taffeta, the Making and Knowing Project

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By Sumeyye Yar and Sophie Pitman

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I am Sumeyye Yar.
I am actually a biologist

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but I'm also a maker

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who is interested in reconstructing 
historic scientific tools.

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For my project, I reconstructed two recipes

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that describe how to oil paint 
on taffeta without the oil running.

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The recipes: there are two recipes in BnF Ms Fr 640 which suggest making a ground layer (a "size") to stop oil from running on taffeta 

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Folio 42v contains a straightforward set of instructions

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"in order that the oil shall not run, make your first layer with honey, water of alum, and starch water"

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This layer is painted onto the taffeta, which, once dry, can be painted with oil colors

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The recipe on folio 10v is a little different

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It suggests you make a “batture” of honey and turpentine of “colle forte.” Colle forte is a strong glue, often made of rabbit skin

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Both folio 42v and 10v share two ingredients:

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those are honey and alum of water.

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Different from those common ingredients,

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folio 42v calls for starch water

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while folio 10v calls for rabbit skin glue.

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What does painting oil “without the oil running” mean? Why would you need to stop it?

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The first problem that we identified 
with oil painting of taffeta was the

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transfer of all paints to 
the back side of the fabric.

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Another problem with oil painting on taffeta is

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easily visible on this different taffeta sample.

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When you look over here,

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you will see that when there is no sizing applied on the taffeta surface

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an oil ring forms

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around the painted area.

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Comparing this “no-size-applied” taffeta test

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to a “size” taffeta test,

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at first glance we don't see much difference.

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But when we turn them around,

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we see that this “no-size-applied” taffeta sample

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lets the paint pass through the fabric.

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Versus in this example,

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when you look to the right side,

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you see that the sizing material formed,

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actually, a physical barrier and prevented the oil from seeping through the taffeta.

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Oil runs through the fabric and passes
to the back side of the fabric.

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Neither of these recipes gives us any
information about the ratios of the ingredients.

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That's why I chose some starting concentrations

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and then tried out combinations of 
different ratios of those ingredients.

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What were the results?

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I would like to mention that out of eight
different tests that I have done for folio 42v,

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only one of them actually worked.

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And that one was the one with the 
highest wheat starch concentration.

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The rest, which you can see here, did not work.

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They were just similar to “no-size” application.

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The higher the mixed wheat concentration,

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the easier it forms a physical 
barrier on the surface of the fabric.

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Folio 10v seemed to work 
much better than folio 42v,

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because all of the six different tests 
that I have done for 10v actually worked.

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Remember that the only different 
ingredient between 10v and 42v

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is that 10v uses rabbit skin glue versus 
42v which uses wheat starch paste.

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Under these conditions it seems like rabbit skin glue functions better than wheat starch paste.

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And let me show you some examples.
Here, you again see on the left,

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“no-size-applied” taffeta, and on the right
you see a "batture" mix applied

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and when I turn them around,

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you see that "batture" completely blocks

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the transfer of the paint on the backside of the taffeta.

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And this was the case for all the tests,

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no matter how I changed 
the concentrations of ingredients.

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As long as I used rabbit skin glue at a concentration of 6% up to 10%,

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it worked.

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To sum up, comparing my findings to the
findings of the previous group suggested that

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the choice of taffeta is actually very crucial 
for a successful application of these recipes.

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In addition to the choice of taffeta, of course 
the ratios also play an important role,

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but the binding oil is also very crucial

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and it seems like 100% 
linseed oil worked the best.

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What were oil painted textiles used for in the early modern era?

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Our historical research suggested
that oil painting on taffeta

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might have been used on banners
that were carried in festivals, 
processions, and royal entries.

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As a showpiece for a completion of my project,

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I decided to paint out the 
shield of the Bethune family,

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which is found on the binding of our manuscript.

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And you can see here that
the paint went on smoothly

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after applying a “batture” mixture that was prepared according to one of the tests

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the test mixtures that I used.

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And when I turn it around,

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you can see that there is no transfer 
of the dye to the backside of the taffeta.

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One of the great findings 
of Sumeyye’s annotation

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was that it tells us a little bit more
about the kinds of ephemeral art

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that we know that people experienced 
in the early modern period.

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Things like painted banners that were 
carried in triumphs and in processions.

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But these things have often been lost to us.
They were very delicate,

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they often weren't saved or 
collected by museums later on.

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But one of the great things about our
manuscript is that it reminds us

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of the kinds of practices that artists 
were having to think about,

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like how to stop oil running through a fine 
taffeta when they were making these objects.

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So it's been a great finding for the 
lab with our focus on ephemeral art

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and to get us thinking about the kinds 
of practices that the author-practitioner
was doing every day in his workshop.

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For more about this experiment and the Making and Knowing Project, please visit www.makingandknowing.org

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Research project by Sumeyye Yar
Supervised by Sophie Pitman
Filming and editing by Sophie Pitman

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Music by Blue Dot Sessions (www.sessions.blue), used under a noncommercial license.

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Images of the Triumph of Julius Caesar from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Images in the public domain.

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Many thanks to the rest of the Making and Knowing Team

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(Pamela Smith, Tianna Uchacz, Tillmann Taape, Naomi Rosenkranz, and Caroline Surman)

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as well as our many collaborators and students for their support and ideas.

